April in Venice

How often and in which cities have you walked past a painter sitting or standing at an easel, looking into the distance trying to measure the proportion of a scene? This is rare in New York where I learned to paint. It is possible in Santa Fe and Florence and Rome, I have visited often. It is common in Venice.

Venice, for a painter is first and last light. Of course it is the ornamented architecture, sculpture, animated street and piazza life and cafes. The nature of light for a painter however as it reflects off objects and water projects color, casts shadows and covers objects that fall into shade. For this Venice is the best place on earth.

When you come upon a painter in Venice, look over the painter's shoulder. Most often there is no underdrawing or sketch. The painting process is ala prima  ---- the first stroke, direct paint to the canvas or panel --- no pencil drawing no charcoal --- just paint. The first brush strokes may be a raw umber or sienna wash to develop a composition. Be alert. This is not the classical painting you will find inside the churches and museums. This is not Tintoretto or Titian of the Venetian Renaissance ---- This is the evolution of the Impressionists not the Academie.

Piazza San Marco Pigeons

Venice is best at dawn, seen empty.

"There is nothing new to be said about her." said Henry James. "Venice is the most beautiful cliche on earth."

If a writer thinks it is difficult to find fresh ideas in Venice, think of the painters who painted Venice before us: ---- Titian, Tiepolo and Canaletto! Search Julian Merrow-Smith, Postcard From Provence ---- for a contemporary attempt. In my series I am searching for the ironic, location-specific and of-this-moment Venice.

Pigeon Observes Students Observing Pigeons

Venice vexes, annoys, disturbs and excites.

Venice is not boring.

Venice is brow-sweating hot and spine-cramping damp.

Venice is now crowded.

Venice is then vacant.

Venice can smell.

Venice can sing ----- church bells ringing over the city roofs, --- out of sync.

Venice is sinking into the lagoon that is rising over Venice.

Venice is la Serinemissa --- Venice is Serene.

No season is boring in Venice --- but pack warm after October and carry a water bottle after April.